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Thread: Setting up your firing iron

  1. #1
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    Default Setting up your firing iron

    So you have your brand new weapon, which you carefully research on the web and the scope you selected from a dealer after many hours of discussion. You sit down at your ex wife's prized dinning room table, yes the highly polished one, with alun key, screw drivers, oil...and hammer just in case.

    This was the journey I found myself taking and discovered an entire new form of English (!$$#%$#). There is a difference between PCP and Springer when scopes are to be selected as well as their mounting. Then there is parallax and fast reticle and objective lenses, and the rest gets way out of my league.

    I would like to know it there is someone out there who can help with this in easy steps, like marrage counselling. Things such as bench testing a springer is not the best method. And the 'head bob' to set the parallax, and so on.

    Please help, at least I now hit my wall and not the neighbours windows when I shoot. But I would like to do a little better and I sure by de-mystifying many of these types of issues people will find this to be an interesting, and infact very challenging (self) past time. :cowboy:

  2. #2
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    Tell me more about what you bought ....
    .... I will gladly help ....
    But pls be specific, I want to know if u have 1 or 2 pc mounts, is there a arrestor/stop pin, are you actually using it.

    What exactly is the problem, is the scope moving when you shoot,
    Have you cleant the barrel,
    What pellets

    As much detail as possible !
    <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Wed Dec 01 2004, 03:42 ]</span>

  3. #3
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    Couple of hints for shooting a springer which I've picked up on and helped me shoot a little better.

    The recoil of a springer should not be resisted, it has to recoil - allow it to jump about in your hands.
    Try to attain the same hold pattern for every shot. (Forehand in exactly the same place with the same grip and same firmness.) Some people offer advice as holding the rifle as loosely as possible, myself - I prefer a light but not loose grip. YMMV
    Don't squeeze the trigger, a gentle consistant pull after taking up the slack.
    Consistency is what your after.

    Don't place your springer on a hard surface to shoot from, use a towel or your hand to support the stock. After all when hunting or HFT a hard surface is not readily available.

    Set your scope up so it's comfortable for you in your usual hold.

    Also a new springer has a break in period, so a couple of hundred shots will allow it to settle down nicely. Once it's broken in then try different pellets, for example my Gamo did not like Crosman pellets at all. (About 1 inch grouping at 12 yards.)

    Don't mangle the scope by over-tightening, rather get a scope-stop to stop any movement. You can put a bit of fine tape on the mounts and body to check if it is in fact moving.

    Anyways - far from gospel - just my experience through shooting and reading lots'n'lots on forums.

    And from the mouth of Lewis: "Practice, Practice, Practice...."


  4. #4
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    Hello guys , Airgun world recommends at least 2500 pellets throught the barrel , to sort the barrel , & settle down the spring & hones the trigger . Pellets are probably the single biggest factor to accuracy , once you've sorted out your hold & scope movement . I have found Air arms field diabolo work best in my Gamo springer .

  5. #5
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    Sorry, I guess I should have qualified my angle a little better. Basically I have both PCP and Springer and although I have been moderately successful it has taken a lot of time and research. And I also believe that there are many people out there who felt the same frustrations, but did not have access to the resources that I do, and due to embarrassment are hesitant to ask. And I say this based on the fact that there are so many gun shops that will talk down to you when procuring a ?pellet? gun. Which might I add are lethal, there is currently a case in the UK where an air rifle was used to kill four people, they are not toys and should be treated with their due respect.

    Let?s begin with the Springer, a Gamo fitted with Lynx 4 x 40 scope, standard mount and stop. I don?t believe that there is very much movement on the scope. So I set off setting the scopes and found this to be something of a nightmare, the problem was that I was trying to lock the rifle to a bench and the recoil was completely destroying whatever settings I made. I then read an article in Magnum about not resisting the recoil when sighting the rifle. Having changed the method I found this to be very successful, but I still find a rather large difference between first and fifth shot. I would like to know why?
    Then my PCP, CZ200S and Weihrauch HW100. Here I have a variety of scopes and recoil has pretty much no affect on the mountings at all. But the part I got hung up on was the issue of parallax. So, after much surfing I became convinced that the ?head bob? method was the most scientific, and this worked. But then how do you calculate the adjustment on the site. What I mean by this is that the scope I refer to has a setting that each click is equal to 6mm at 100 yards, but what about at 25 yards. How many clicks? How can I calculate this on the first shot? I mean on the range you can zero from your last shot, but not many things you are trying to kill will hang around for a second dose.

    I just feel that I took the long route on a lot of these issues. By creating a collective contribution people entering the sport will not become discouraged and the sport will gain popularity.

  6. #6
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    This is going to be a long one ...

    I can't possibly list all possible problems and solutions, but we can work through them until you're happy.

    Most important .. try various pellets like the AA FT, Accupells. Stick to the "quality" pellets, cheap pellets are not worth the frustration.

    is the 4x40 parallax adjustable ? If not is it set to be parallax free at about 25m ? Aim at something at about 20m and then move your head behind the scope, if it looks like the crosshair is moving you have parallax problems ! If you have parallax problems you can basically "throw" the scope away, it will mean that parallax is set at for example at 50 or 100m making the scope useless on an airgun. Mount the scope as low as you can, it will make the pellet "arc" less obvious on 10-30m, the higher your scope is mounted the more you will have to "dial" or kentucky for different distances. If your scope has mil-dots you can also use them for various distances, thing is that you must train yourself to rangefind with your eyes...
    Make sure that the scope isn't moving ! Mark where your mounts are connected to the gun, with tippex for example, shoot 15 shots and check again, ALL MOVEMENT must be eliminated.
    On the Gamo I'm pretty sure that your problem will end up being parallax.
    If your still unsure, remove scope and use the open sites to see if the results are the same.
    You will have to go through a process of elimination to solve the problem.
    I have found that the top of the arc on airguns shooting a 8gr pellet at about 800fps is at about 25-30m, point if impact is virtually the same from about 20m up to about 35m.

    if your scopes have "sniper" type turrets your problem can be easily solved.
    If 1 click = 6mm at 100m you have 1/4 click scopes, this is a good thing, that means that you will never have to go past a full turn on your elevation turret. This makes the margin for user error much smaller ! (many top FT shooters have LOST competitions because of that).
    Presuming that you have sniper type turrets, take something like masking tape and cover the markings on the turret, now start with for example 25m and "zero" the gun, once crosshair meets pellet mark it with a pen on the turret for that distance. After you have tested and marked all distances you can simply dial in for any given distance after you have rangefinded.
    Distances should be something like : 8m, 10, 12.5, 15, 17.5, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45 and 50m.
    If you want finer distance markings thanthis you will have to make a bigger turret yourself to cover your existing turret or record the info on a seperate piece of paper. The only thing about seperate piece of paper is that it's another thing that you must carry around with you.
    Also use logic with your settings, if you have a setting for 10 and a setting for 15 then in theory 12.5 would be halfway between the two.

    Now for some bad news, can't use the HW100 for FT at current speed ! Launches a 8gr pellet at about 1050 fps (see Magnum), speed must be dropped to about 800fps with a 8gr pellet.

    Now to make things even worse ( I'm sure I can apply for the Grim Reapers job ), there is info available on the internet, I think on that explains all the things in lots of detail - about 20-30 pages. I have it in printed format, will have to look where I got hold of it.

  7. #7
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    %-6 I found for a start that sighting your rifle at about 30 yards will allow you to aim spot on up to about 35 yards and still be within the 40mm kill zone of a FT target. The parralax is to make the picture clear when you look through the scope at various distances and has very little to do with your P O I(Point of Impact). Shoot on 10x for a start to get use to your scope and then you can progress to dialing in distances and all that difficult jargon(I believe in KISS) Set up as above you will find that the drop is drastic after about 35 yrads and you have to use mill dots (Aprox. 1 per 5 yards)or adjust you aim higher by guessing. A mill-dot scope works best for me because I don't dial around on my scope.It's too difficult. When you look trough your scope and the picture is blurr you adjust your pallax untill you can see clearly and read the distance off the side of your scope. Believe me a meter or two out does not count for anything wourth mentioning. BS baffles the brain, even when shooting, maybe more so. Let us know how it goes. !dodge

  8. #8
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    Why oh why are people so scared of sorting out their own equipment ?
    Everything in life is as difficult as you make it !
    ( I still laugh when I see people who let a Gunshop mount and "set in" a scope for them in 2 minutes)

    WolfFlow, I presume that you want to shoot FT, if you want to you will have to go the route of dialing in for a given distance ( you will end up doing it sooner or later ). I have seen many people that have gone the 1 zero and using mildots route, and every single one of them ended up taping the turrets closed and marking the ranges off on their "new" turret. It's just much more accurate.
    For hunting, learn to use your mildots, it's faster than having to rangefind and then dial for the distance (also not much faster though)
    Parallax, yes it's there to bring the target into focus, but also to eliminate Parallax, if you have parallax you will never have a true and constant aiming point because the crosshair will appear to be "drifting" if you move your head behind the scope.

    When shooting FT (and out there to try and get a decent score) you need to be sure that you will be shooting where you're aiming, being out by 10mm could mean a miss on reduced targets, a miss means 1 less point. Nobody wants to doubt their equipment and that's why you should set up your equipment properly !
    You and only you should do it.
    Gerrie, a meter or two counts alot when you're shooting at a 10mm hole at 8m, if you're off by 2m chances are 90% that you will miss the target (dependant on whether you're using low or high mounts - most people are using high mounts) so I have to say that I don't agree with you.
    Ex SANDF sniper finding dialing in difficult ... scary ...
    (no offense Gerrie, couldn't help myself)

    <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Tue Dec 07 2004, 07:24PM ]</span>

  9. #9
    Sharp Shooter

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    Hi there, my 2 cents.
    There is a big differance between hunting and FT.
    Hunting: Get a scope without adjustable paralax(you can set it yourself to what ever you want) and use milldot. "Birds" don't hang about to set paralax and dail in.END
    FT: this is a game where money rules. Now that I am using a big scope(borrowed) I can see the differance it can make to your score. Dailing does work here and so does range finding ability. Milldots/plex recticles helps with the left/right for the wind(amaing off).
    Springer: Forget about dailing, you are not going to benifit from it.
    Good luck with the sniping on the RANGE

  10. #10
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    Can we have a bit of detail about setting the paralax on a scope without adjustable paralax please? You've got met totally in the dark here!

  11. #11
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    Without complicating things too much. If you have a scope that is calibrated at the front end you are able to adjust your paralax. You will find that if it is set on 15 or more depending what scope you have and you look at something 10 yards away it will be blurred. When you turn the scope up or down(clock wise, I think for down) to 10 you will find it is now clear. That is how you range find. So you have to measure off different distances and range find it with your scope to check how accurate the markings are,and to change it by re doing it on masking tape put around the front of the scope ( As described above somewhere). Before doing any of this you have to look through the scope at the sky,NOT THE SUN or a solid object like a wall some distance away, to see that your cross hairs/mill dots are nice and clear. If it is not, adjust the back of the scope up or down(+ or -) untill it is. This in normal language should take care of your range finding and paralax to a great degree. If you have more trouble phone me on JNB 9718400 or 0824613975 any time and I will try to explain better .

  12. #12
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    Hi Kobus,
    I think Gerrie misunderstood your question a little. It has to do with loosening the front lens and turning it to reset the parallax, haven't done it though !
    cheers Neil
    <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Thu Dec 09 2004, 08:49PM ]</span>

  13. #13
    Sharp Shooter

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    To set the paralax is all about adjusting the front lens. Take the scope off the rifle. Loosen the ring that keeps the front lens (barrel end). Keep the scope facing up so that if it is filled with "nytro" it won't run out. remove the lens. Udjust the ring below (turn "out&quot and fit it all back. This takes time and make small settings at a time. Test with head bob method.

  14. #14
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    Thanks, I'm back on track - I think. Last night finally got my springer to shoot where I think I'm aiming. The biggest problem is not the scope or the rifle or pellets, it is me! Getting yourself to be consistent in hold and posture etc. is damn hard and takes a lot of concentration. Will get there, eventually.

  15. #15
    Sharp Shooter
    The Professor

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    Hi Kobus,

    On the majority of scopes that are not parallax adjustable, the parallax can be relatively easily corrected for airgun use.

    First step is to remove the front locking ring that locks the lens carrier in place. On some scopes these are very tight and can be real fun to loosen off. Once this locking ring is removed it exposes a threaded lens carrier - the threads of this item are covered in a thick sticky grease that acts as a seal for the inert gas that most scopes are filled with.

    DO NOT REMOVE THE LENS TOTALLY - it is not necessary all that will happen is you run the risk of releasing the inert gas.

    To adjust parallax (or focus) of the scope look at a target at a set distance and screw the lens carrier in or out a little to achieve a clear image. If the scope is a zoom such as a 3-9 etc I would recommend setting the magnification to maximum when carrying out this operation. When you have achieved a well focussed image replace the locking ring.

    If you set it to a clear focus on 9 mag at say 35 metres you will find the scope is perfectly usable between 25m and 50m, and if you reduce the magnification the image will be in clear focus at very short distances as well.

    It sounds a slightly complicated operation but is actually quite simple. If anyone would like further information please feel free to contact me on and I will be happy to give further advice.

    <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Mon Dec 13 2004, 10:22AM ]</span>

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