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Thread: Custom trigger for S400?

  1. #1
    Inactive Member

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    Default Custom trigger for S400?

    hi all,

    those who's used/tried the trigger, how do you rate it?
    afaik, it's got an extra sear or somthing.........is't for 12ftlbs versions only? or can it be fitted for the whole range?

    will it be a over-kill for a dedicated hunter?

    my baby is still @ factory, only coming in jan, hence pondering on the mod.............

    thanks.

  2. #2
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    I am by no ways a trigger boffin at all. I have a S400 and I ajusted the trigger to what I think is pretty light and breaking clean. This took me 5 shote to achieve. How many sears etc. etc. I don't know and would be better off not knowing.

  3. #3
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    The trigger mod is worth every cent. In place of the normal two shear arrangement it use three. The difference is remarkable. It is the same for all the S400/410 models.

  4. #4
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    I had to tweak my S400's trigger from the factory setting, the first stage felt a bit too long on the pull for my taste. Turned the adjustment screws (B and C) in one full turn each in the end. Breaking nice and crisp now. IIRC don't they call it the CD trigger? As opposed to Weihrauch's Rekord trigger? lol

  5. #5
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    thanks casper,

    i'm convinced/sold, will order on monday...........
    man, this is like @ mcdees................


  6. #6
    Sharp Shooter
    The Professor

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    Hi Urabus,

    I have one of the original modified triggers as developed by Nick Jenkinson fitted to the S400 that I customised to use as an FT rifle a couple of years ago (review of this rifle here: http://aftsa.co.za/Pages/reviews/s400_custom.htm )

    For target use I think it is an excellent modification, however I have not had the trigger on my S410 carbine modified as this rifle is purely a hunting rifle and I prefer the standard trigger for hunting use.

    Saying that the, standard trigger does benefit from a little bit of light polishing, lubrication and adjustment to give a smoother pull, which is exactly what I have done on my S410.

    Dale

  7. #7
    Sharp Shooter

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    What do you use for lubing the trigger ?

  8. #8
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    so, what's secret Dale?

    this is what i do............ tetra/moly grease very light smear on the sears and some on the sides. a drop of light machine oil on the pins. am i doing it right?
    if not, pls advice....

  9. #9
    Sharp Shooter
    The Professor

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    Hi Guys,

    My preferred lubricant is Abbey Moly GN paste (although I have also used Rocol Anti-Scuffing paste). Both of these lubricants are a molybdenum disulphide paste with very little carrier so they are much "drier" than other greases and tend to stay where they are applied. Just a very light smear is sufficient.

    I have also considered using the spray on moly as used on rifle bullets to see if that would work but have not gotten round to experimenting yet.........

    In terms of polishing the sears I use 2000 grit abrasive paper to polish the sides of the sears in contact with the alloy trigger housing. I do NOT polish the engagement surfaces.

    When polished re-assemble with a light smear of lube where the sears contact the housing and a smear on the actual engagement surfaces.

    One other thing that can be changed is to substitute the o-rings for small metal bushings. The purpose of these o-rings is only to keep the sears in the correct position - however if the trigger cover plate bears too tightly upon them they will cause the trigger pull to be less responsive to adjustment.

    Other than the above it is just a matter of careful adjustment of the trigger. While this work will improve the trigger pull, it will not bring it up equal to the pull that can be obtained from the three sear modified trigger.

    Dale

  10. #10
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    Found another setup guide for the AA S4X0 'sponge and a matchstick' trigger

    http://www.airgunforum.net/agf/index...T&f=16&t=10350

    ...

  11. #11
    Sharp Shooter
    Protea FT Team '08

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    Avion . Link wants a log in

  12. #12
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    Adjusting the Air-Arms CD Trigger

    How it works
    A two stage trigger mechanism means that as the trigger is pulled through both the first and second stages, the bottom sear is gradually and progressively disengaging with the top sear. When the sears are completely disengaged, the rifle fires.

    This true two-stage trigger unit is fitted to many Air Arms PCP rifles and springers. Adjustment of both the first and second stages is possible and trigger weight can be varied also. There are three adjustment screws identified as A, B and C in the picture. A controls the trigger pull weight, B adjusts the first stage and C adjusts the second stage.



    The balance of the stages is easily upset by maladjustment; the most common problem being a lack of first stage resistance, giving a ?sloppy? trigger.

    Warning. A wrongly adjusted trigger IS dangerous.

    When correctly adjusted, if the trigger is released at any stage before firing, the sears return to their original (i.e. trigger untouched) engagement.

    Both B and C adjusters (screws) work in the same manner as they both move the sear but as B is nearer the trigger blade?s pivot pin it has more leverage, so when the trigger rotates on the pivot pin it eventually contacts C, which takes the pressure, thus creating the ?hesitation? of the second stage. Their adjustments are interactive, so an adjustment of B will necessitate a compensating adjustment of C ? and so on.

    Adjustment
    There will be ways of adjustment other than that which follows, but this does work.

    Note. Safely shoot the gun in between adjustments; dry firing is fine with a PCP but NOT on a springer, which must always fire a pellet (safely into a backstop).

    Adjustment of weight of pull is accomplished with adjuster A, but it should not be set too light for safety reasons.

    To adjust the pull weight use screw A, but be careful not to set it too light; the weight is usually pretty well set at the factory. Rotating A clockwise increases the pull weight. If adjusted too far, the spring will become coil-bound, preventing trigger operation.

    To adjust the first stage, unscrew C until the second stage is removed and the first stage, B, can be released on its own. This makes the trigger feel like a single stage.

    Adjust B until there is no slack or sloppiness in the trigger. Adjust C slowly until a second stage is felt and then screw it in (clockwise) a little bit more (generally not more than ? turn) for safety to ensure sufficient second stage sear overlap. Adjust B slightly if necessary to get the length of the first stage to your liking (clockwise adjustment reduces first stage trigger travel), but bear in mind that every adjustment of B will require a small adjustment of C to retain the second stage where you want it to be.

    After adjustment, there should be no creep and (careful with this test) a smart rap of the butt pad on a hard surface should not cause the trigger to release.

    ? Deej
    July 2004

  13. #13
    Sharp Shooter
    Protea FT Team '08

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    Hey guys found this on the web.

    http://www.a2kda.com/trigger

    Is this sage advice ?I have been plinking a lot with my S400 and I think it could use a better pull and release.Or should I get the 3 sear trigger.

    Importer what does the 3 sear trigger go for ?Once its in is it easy to set to your own taste ?

  14. #14
    Sharp Shooter
    The Professor

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    Allan, the advice in the link you posted is good although I found that the polishing and the spring guide give the greatest degree of benefit. The fiddling with fibre washers was less beneficial for me so I went back to the o-rings (although Jamie found some tiny metal bushings that worked well).

    Dale
    <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Thu Dec 29 2005, 12:08PM ]</span>

  15. #15
    Sharp Shooter
    Protea FT Team '08

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    Dale you wrote " I do NOT polish the engagement surfaces. " Why not ?The last thing I want to do is bugger my trigger up.

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