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Thread: Bedding your Action Part 2

  1. #1
    Springer FT World Champion '09
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    Default Bedding your Action Part 2

    OK, so here's the full go at bedding your action...

    After having attempted a 'mild' version of this (little blobs of resin at strategic points) I decided to go the whole hog! This, driven by the huge reduction in perceived vibration I was getting from the gun with the minimalist approach.

    As you have all gathered over the years, I am a fiddler of note and am into experimentation (in this instance, it does not involve any controlled substances, although at one point I thought that they should restrict access to bedding resin).

    So without further ado, let's jump in without reading the instructions (as I did... and found that this is IMPERATIVE to a good result) - more later!

    Easy to Use Acraglas Gel is the product from Nick Yale. Maxed out my credit card buying it (yes it is pricey, so if anyone wants to attempt this, I have used less than a 3rd and you can buy the rest to save yourself money).

    First step is to thoroughly degrease your action. This I did using benzine.

    Next, you apply the release agent to the action with a brush and allow to dry before application of a second coat. You then fill in all the pin holes and small recesses with paste wax. I used antique furniture wax which worked well. Next time I will use window putty, as the wax takes too long to 'set' and I am not THAT patient! Window putty is firmer and holds its shape better, and can be dissolved with turps later.

    'Hier is waar die groot kak begin spat het!'

    Very easy to measure and mix, but rather use an empty (unthreaded) pellet tin - you toss the tin afterwards, reducing cleanup as well as wastage. Colour it with the supplied dye and mix some more and you are ready to go.

    It comes out looking like edible treacle toffee, and this lulls you into a false sense of 'ease-of-use' - so BEWARE! This stuff gets on everything, without you realising it! For all you people with kids - remember that Meconium stool that almost pushed you over the edge during that first nappy change? THIS STUFF IS WORSE!!! I now have a wife that is wondering what the rock-hard black stuff is that has adhered to her kitchen countertop, and tiled floor, and dishcloth, and vinegar bottle is.

    Caution number 1 (relating to above)... Do an environmental rehabilitation cleanup with vinegar before applying this goo to your stock. It will save the heartbreak and fear later.

    Step 2

    Prep your stock.
    I did not remove any wood, but what I did do is take a punch and make lotsa small holes in the inletting where the resin can seat. Time will tell if this will be enough. Thoroughly degrease the wood using benzine.

    Step 3

    Application to the stock:
    This 'devils butter' is so easy to smear into the inletting I just 'mikked noord en ______ed voort. WRONG!!!

    What you need to do is KNOW beforehand where the stock and action touches and PREDETERMINE where you want the added weld. Then gauging how much gorilla snot will be needed to fill the space.

    The next step into the kakstorm with Step 4 (without a raincoat or soap for afterwards)...

    Step 4:

    Placing the action:
    Gently and steadily lower the stock onto the upside-down action. For all of you with shaky hands or involuntary muscular contractions (Relating to the 'mixing stage' - from the fork that your wife stuck into your skull... for not doing the Environmental Rehab...remember I told you about this?... I digress) this needs care. Remember that this stuff goes everywhere without you realising it.

    Once in place, bolt the action back in position and tighten everything up. Common sense would say not to tighten it all the way, but to say 95%, as you don't want to squeeze all the resin out, and therefore have reduced weld when fully tightened.

    I made myself a scraping tool using a bamboo skewer and removed all the 'squeeze' around the action. Keep a vinegar-SOAKED cloth handy as well to frequently clean the scraper of excess. Have a vinegar DAMPENED cloth handy to wipe the stock/action where the ooze occurred. Note to all those who own blued guns - vinegar removes blueing!

    Caution No. 2!!!
    What I did not do, is take more time to examine where the resin could possibly ooze too, and into - on the action! Like (yes you guessed it) the trigger housing... and the breech opening... and the front bracket... and the stamping and a myriad other little places that you never realised existed! Places INikko StirlingIDE places!

    Next time, an overuse of window putty is better that courting possible permanent disaster.

    Step 5:

    Releasing the action from the resin...Oooooh DONDER!!!
    It could have turned out disastrous, but with a bit of patience and 'intelligent' thought after the fact, I managed to figure out an effective method of releasing the resin-flooded trigger group from the stock (2 hours of gentle prayer-supported wiggling and woggling with absolutely no effect, then finally 10 seconds of curse-filled violence using a hammer and a thin screwdriver...

    Voila! One freed action and one black resin-encrusted stock.

    A cleanup with water and benzine on the action, and a bit of filing and sanding on all the stock-based ooze and we were good to go.

    Bolted the rifle together, took her outside and...

    Step 6:

    The first shots:
    AWESOME! It is like I own a totally different rifle.

    It may only be perception, but it feels now as if the rifle was cast in one piece. There is no vibration, boing, twang, or whatever other sounds an effects you can conjour that normally apply to a spring gun. Just a nice solid 'thump' - like a 20 mil fired off a casspir a 100m away.

    Whether the accuracy is improved I may never know (or time will tell).

    Will I do it to my next springer... most definitely. But I will do it differently, for the preservation of sanity.

    The key next time will be:

    Give it to someone else to do! -

    or

    Patience - Read the instructions and not rely on 'how hard could it be?'. Research and understand before you get to the point of no return!

    More prep work - I will strip the rifle down to the bare minimum needed for fitting and I will close up every orifice and make sure that every part that has the slightest chance of coming into contact with the resin is masked. I tried getting some of that 'Second Skin' spray on burn treatment but nobody had any.

    Know exactly where the resin may, in its wisdom (yes, it DOES have a mind of its own), decide to go.

    Having said all this, in hindsight, it was a good learning experience, and maybe even fun. I feel I did a very good job!

    I dare you all to give it a go!

    The Bludster has spoken!
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  2. #2
    Sharp Shooter

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    Well done Blud. Can be a mess working with this stuff but the end result is awesome.

    I did something similar with the 410 I use to have. I used Pratley Putty. A lot firmer and does not run in everywhere. The result was very good. I also cover the action in a single layer of cling wrap from the kitchen. Again seemed to worked OK.
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  3. #3
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    Sounds easy enough, so when can I bring my HW97 so you can do it for me?
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  4. #4
    Sharp Shooter

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bludlust View Post

    The key next time will be:

    Give it to someone else to do! -

    The Bludster has spoken!

    What time should I be there ???
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  5. #5
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    Now where is the pics.
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  6. #6
    Protea Benchrest (Air) Team '17/'19

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    I have heard of guys doing it wrong, and they will never get the action out of the stock ever again.
    I used kids putty to fill in the gaps and build dam walls where the resin should not go.
    The putty can be bought at any large store. It come's in thin colored strips. Also cover the stock with lots of masking tape to keep things clean.

    Here are some links.
    http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/bedding.html
    http://www.charm.net/~kmarsh/glasbed.html
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  7. #7
    Protea Benchrest (Air) Team '17/'19

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  8. #8
    Springer FT World Champion '09
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    Quote Originally Posted by Madmaxfvh View Post
    Now where is the pics.

    Nothing to see really... it's all hidden inside the inletting.
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  9. #9
    Sharp Shooter

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    So the last question do it make a difference. (makes the gun more accurate and more quite )
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  10. #10
    Springer FT World Champion '09
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    I do not know whether the gun shoots straighter, but the rifle FEELS amazingly solid. It is definitely quieter from a shooter's perspective, as there is no loner the 'vibration' that goes through your cheekbone into your skull.

    The 'sound' of the rifle is perceptibly shorter (if you know what I mean - for want of a better description, it goes 'thwak' instead of 'thwank')

    I suppose it's like advertising... you don't know the value until it is not done.
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  11. #11
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    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Madmaxfvh
    Now where is the pics.


    Nothing to see really... it's all hidden inside the inletting.
    I was thinking of a step by step guide?
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  12. #12
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    For release agent use Kiwi neutral shoe polish .
    Clean barreled action with laquer thinner or mek.

    Put metal under a 100 w spot light until warm to the touch.
    Using wood handle Q tips and cotton patches wipe a coat of wax everywhere.

    Let cool ten minutes and then wipe again with another clean cotton patch.

    I have used a lot of release agent bedding rifles over many years and this is the best one so far.

    Glenn
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  13. #13
    Springer FT World Champion '09
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stonewall View Post
    For release agent use Kiwi neutral shoe polish .
    Clean barreled action with laquer thinner or mek.

    Put metal under a 100 w spot light until warm to the touch.
    Using wood handle Q tips and cotton patches wipe a coat of wax everywhere.

    Let cool ten minutes and then wipe again with another clean cotton patch.

    I have used a lot of release agent bedding rifles over many years and this is the best one so far.

    Glenn
    Nice to know. Not that I will be doing this again! LOL!
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