Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 33

Thread: Getting your knife sharp? (my process of sharpening to shaving sharp/mirror finish)

  1. #1
    Inactive Member

    User Info Menu

    Default Getting your knife sharp? (my process of sharpening to shaving sharp/mirror finish)

    Well here is my process to getting a knife from dull, or manufacturer edge to being able to shave your beard with. I have sharpened other peoples knives in the past so if you are interested send me a email or pm. For those wanting to try it themselves. Here you go:

    I recently noticed while playing with the benchstone and a piece of plank that it seemed to be a good angle at around 5 degrees. After some measurement this is what I came up with:





    Now the reason for this is due to a video done by another member on various forums.
    Here is a link to his great adjustable sharpening platform:



    My method is very similar, except after watching videos of the Bubble Jig


    I decided to incorporate something similar till I can afford the real Bubble Jig.


    The secret is to get a good burr going. This is D2 steel on my Becnhmade Bone Collector profiled to 10 degrees per side.

    Good burr



    Edge all the way sharpened


    No burr, and not hitting the entire edge: BAD!




    Then I knock the burr of with white ceramic stone of Lansky


    Then strop.



    Results


    Under 25X times magnification





    In the field I use a diamond paddle 600 grit or Lansky Turn box kit. Usually I just use the paddle and lightly knock the bur off.


    Total edge reprofiling: Can take up to 2 hours.
    Edge maintenance. Less then 10 minutes to same results as above. In the field the same time. (this can vary depending on the damage to the edge and DONT STOP UNTIL YOU FEEL THE BURR)

    Reasons I started with this low angle and constant low angle.
    Well here is a video.
    https://www.youtube.com/user/ewerstruly/videos
    It requires less force to cut through material.

    and I read the book
    The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening.
    Here is a website where you can get the book.
    http://www.razoredgesystems.com/products/books

    DMT stones will make the process much faster IMO and of course, this is my process for my needs. I convex certain knives, but EDC and hunting knives are as thin as possible. Your needs may vary, but remember when sharpening.....GET THE BURR!

    After years of experimenting and reading I have to update this thread.

    Many people over strop the edge. I did as well. This can actually round the edge and decrease performance.

    Also, burr removal is of great importance and my skills have increased that I can minimise burr formation in normal sharpening. If one creates a massive burr one can actually over stress the edge resulting in a decrease in edge performance.

    Here is my new method that I can adapt to the stone I have on had.

    - Destressed the edge. This is done by cutting the edge into the stone to remove any damaged metal.
    - Shaping - 320grit diamond
    - Apexing to remove any form of burr 4 very light strokes.
    - Refinement

    Here are a few examples of the technique:



    Last edited by marthinus1; 24-07-13 at 08:05. Reason: Updated technique
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  2. #2
    Sharp Shooter
    WP HFT/Springer Champ '15

    User Info Menu

    Default

    whats the story with the bur?i always get a bur when using a lansky sharpening set but find it very difficult to get rid of the bur.please explain some more how to get rid of it
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  3. #3
    Inactive Member

    User Info Menu

    Default

    Awesome rapport, thank you

    Sounds like alot of work

    Will have to bring my knives to you
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  4. #4
    Inactive Member

    User Info Menu

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr H View Post
    whats the story with the bur?i always get a bur when using a lansky sharpening set but find it very difficult to get rid of the bur.please explain some more how to get rid of it
    The bur forms when the two sides of the edge meets.


    Ref: http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=15686

    The best way to describe removing the bur is as follows (this person described it much better then my attempts).

    "You can't always see the burr- but you can feel it. The safesy way I find the burr is to scrape my fingernail down the edge to see if it "hangs" as it touches the edge. In the above image, imagine my fingernail sliding from right to left, with my finger away from the blade.


    Once you have a good burr, you're almost done. Now is the time to slightly change your angle, and change your stone to a finer one.

    Increase your angle just a little, and work the knife a few times on each side, always maintaining the new angle. Once you get really close, you should be using lighter and lighter stroke- you're coaxing the last burrs off the blade, not bending the edge you've worked so hard on.
    "
    Ref: http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=15686

    What I do is I use my lansky ultra fine (sometimes the fine) rod, freehand, increase the angle slightly and lightly sharpen until most of the burr is removed. Final cleanup of the bur is on the leather strop.

    I hope this helps, if not let me know and I will try again.
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  5. #5
    Inactive Member

    User Info Menu

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti View Post
    Awesome rapport, thank you

    Sounds like alot of work

    Will have to bring my knives to you
    Sure you can bring them to me , but it will cost you (not a arm and a leg though) send me a PM if interested.

    it is a lot of time, especially with newer steels that are harder, but once you get it that sharp it becomes much easier to maintain the edge in my experience.
    Last edited by marthinus1; 11-08-11 at 23:54.
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  6. #6
    Sharp Shooter

    User Info Menu

    Default

    I realise this is a very old thread, but I would really love more information about the stropping part: What leather is used, how is the strop used etc.
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  7. #7
    Inactive Member

    User Info Menu

    Default

    does anyone in CT offer a knife sharpening service for EDC knives ect?TX200
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  8. #8
    Rest in Peace Uncle Alan 4/11/2016

    User Info Menu

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by loaded View Post
    does anyone in CT offer a knife sharpening service for EDC knives ect?TX200
    I'll sharpen them for you on a Lansky
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  9. #9
    Inactive Member

    User Info Menu

    Default

    To learn how to strop, look at YouTube videos about the techniques - there are some nice ones by J. Davis. I will see if I can find a suitable link.

    Here is a link:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsI_...e_gdata_player
    Last edited by LeonW; 17-05-13 at 15:43.
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  10. #10
    Springer FT World Champion '09
    Protea FT Team '19

    SAFTAA FT Colours '12
    Forum Sponsor

    User Info Menu

    Default

    I was taught to first do a 'pushed' edge, and then a light dragged edge to finish. Stropped if you have one.

    I manage to get a nice 'shaving' edge without worrying too much about angles (obviously a perfectly consistent angle is the best, but I am talking 'hand-held, in the field' here).

    Any comments?
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  11. #11
    Sharp Shooter

    User Info Menu

    Default

    After enough practice hand held in the field can get quite good...
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  12. #12
    Inactive Member

    User Info Menu

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bludlust View Post
    I was taught to first do a 'pushed' edge, and then a light dragged edge to finish. Stropped if you have one.

    I manage to get a nice 'shaving' edge without worrying too much about angles (obviously a perfectly consistent angle is the best, but I am talking 'hand-held, in the field' here).

    Any comments?
    Edge trailing strokes (the stropping motion you mention) can have a good result on lower quality stones, however, the risk of producing a burr that will give less then ideal cutting performance is increased. Research done by Verhoeven has shown that edge leading strokes, cutting into the stone, produces best results.
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  13. #13
    Sharp Shooter

    User Info Menu

    Default

    If you know what you are doing, people who aren't able to keep a good stable angle will make less of a stuff-up with trailing edge, will not be as good, but better than hopeless
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  14. #14
    Springer FT World Champion '09
    Protea FT Team '19

    SAFTAA FT Colours '12
    Forum Sponsor

    User Info Menu

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by marthinus1 View Post
    Edge trailing strokes (the stropping motion you mention) can have a good result on lower quality stones, however, the risk of producing a burr that will give less then ideal cutting performance is increased. Research done by Verhoeven has shown that edge leading strokes, cutting into the stone, produces best results.
    Ahhh... OK.

    Hence my confusion. I have never ever had a burr! LOL

    For kitchen knives (SS) I have a rough large rough/fine stone like the one pictured, and then I do the final polished edges on a hard arkansas. Then the idiots in my house blunt them in a day, by cutting on a hard surface!

    For tools, plane blades and personal knives, I just use the arkansas.
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums

  15. #15
    Inactive Member

    User Info Menu

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bludlust View Post
    Ahhh... OK.

    Hence my confusion. I have never ever had a burr! LOL

    For kitchen knives (SS) I have a rough large rough/fine stone like the one pictured, and then I do the final polished edges on a hard arkansas. Then the idiots in my house blunt them in a day, by cutting on a hard surface!

    For tools, plane blades and personal knives, I just use the arkansas.
    Here is the article:


    http://www.bushcraftuk.com/downloads...nifeshexps.pdf

    Written by Distinguished Emeritus Professor Materials Science and Engineering John D Verhoeven.

    He also authored incredible books for knife makers such as:
    Fundamentals of Physical Metallurgy, John Wiley & Sons, N.Y. 1975
    Steel Metallurgy for the Non-Metallurgist, ASM International, Metals Park, OH 2007

    and a personal favorite:

    Metallurgy of Steel for Bladesmiths & Others who Heat Treat and Forge Steel - By John D. Verhoeven (2005)
    Sign Up To Air Rifle SA Forums


Similar Threads

  1. Sharp Tiger
    By crab in forum Airgun Discussions
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12-12-13, 15:32
  2. Mythbusting with an Opinel....Shaving sharp by hand!
    By Bludlust in forum Blades | Knives
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-09-13, 06:29
  3. Beware the sharp knife
    By Milosh in forum Blades | Knives
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 28-07-13, 10:33
  4. My sharpening process and results
    By marthinus1 in forum Blades | Knives
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 16-02-11, 13:14

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Friends of Air Rifle SA