Well here is my process to getting a knife from dull, or manufacturer edge to being able to shave your beard with. I have sharpened other peoples knives in the past so if you are interested send me a email or pm. For those wanting to try it themselves. Here you go:
I recently noticed while playing with the benchstone and a piece of plank that it seemed to be a good angle at around 5 degrees. After some measurement this is what I came up with:
Now the reason for this is due to a video done by another member on various forums.
Here is a link to his great adjustable sharpening platform:
My method is very similar, except after watching videos of the Bubble Jig
I decided to incorporate something similar till I can afford the real Bubble Jig.
The secret is to get a good burr going. This is D2 steel on my Becnhmade Bone Collector profiled to 10 degrees per side.
Edge all the way sharpened
No burr, and not hitting the entire edge: BAD!
Then I knock the burr of with white ceramic stone of Lansky
Under 25X times magnification
In the field I use a diamond paddle 600 grit or Lansky Turn box kit. Usually I just use the paddle and lightly knock the bur off.
Total edge reprofiling: Can take up to 2 hours.
Edge maintenance. Less then 10 minutes to same results as above. In the field the same time. (this can vary depending on the damage to the edge and DONT STOP UNTIL YOU FEEL THE BURR)
Reasons I started with this low angle and constant low angle.
Well here is a video.
It requires less force to cut through material.
and I read the book
The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening.
Here is a website where you can get the book.
DMT stones will make the process much faster IMO and of course, this is my process for my needs. I convex certain knives, but EDC and hunting knives are as thin as possible. Your needs may vary, but remember when sharpening.....GET THE BURR!
After years of experimenting and reading I have to update this thread.
Many people over strop the edge. I did as well. This can actually round the edge and decrease performance.
Also, burr removal is of great importance and my skills have increased that I can minimise burr formation in normal sharpening. If one creates a massive burr one can actually over stress the edge resulting in a decrease in edge performance.
Here is my new method that I can adapt to the stone I have on had.
- Destressed the edge. This is done by cutting the edge into the stone to remove any damaged metal.
- Shaping - 320grit diamond
- Apexing to remove any form of burr 4 very light strokes.
Here are a few examples of the technique: