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Thread: Grobler Cutlery - Starting to get real...

  1. #31
    Sharp Shooter
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    Quote Originally Posted by SnowBeast View Post
    That's where I'm at. Hacksaws are the devil. So much so um using my rugby gum guard as I'm grating my teeth while cutting
    Snowbeast, there's not even blood stains on that file handle price tag yet!
    You might want to invest in a small angle grinder, even a cheapie, you'll soon make up the cost by saving on hacksaw blades which ain't cheap either. I found the 'no name brand' hacksaw blades to be a waste of money and time so there's no cheap route there. I rough cut on average 3-4 blades with one angle grinder disc, about R20 a disc. Also, a baby angle grinder comes in handy in the workshop in general besides for knife making.
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  2. #32
    Sharp Shooter
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    I haven't used the file yet, was just In the way. Crap so it gets harder. Haha.
    I must pull my cheapie out. Do you cut from the edge of the blank to your knife line or cut roughly on the design then file away?
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  3. #33
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    Make approximate cuts close to the knife line along the knife line... is what I think... but thats just a thought...

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  4. #34
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    Do the rough grind with a disk. You can then use a layered emery disk to smooth things up a bit.
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  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by SnowBeast View Post
    How are you finding the ryobi? We had flood type rain yesterday and it's still sitting in my bakkie.
    If you are patient the little Ryobi is a gem. The biggest problem is the steel backing plate, if you hold the knife even a little skew it will grind a deep line into the blade on one side, which is difficult to grind out. Start out with little pressure (not that it will allow much, the belt stops easily) and get used to seating the blade squarely, and it will produce a descent flat grind. I took the plastic dust cover off mine and have had no problem with clogging. Grinding finger holes and inside curves is very hard with this. I find that fine grinding with higher grit belts takes practice, as the angles must be just right and it is not always easy to eyeball (if it is wrong I miss areas that only become apparent when buffing). I have ended up fine grinding mine with a stand drill with water paper disks.
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  6. #36
    Sharp Shooter
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    Quote Originally Posted by SnowBeast View Post
    I haven't used the file yet, was just In the way. Crap so it gets harder. Haha.
    I must pull my cheapie out. Do you cut from the edge of the blank to your knife line or cut roughly on the design then file away?
    The tricky part of the angle grinder is that you can only safely cut in straight lines so sit down with a koki and plan your cuts beforehand. Try not to get closer than 6mm from your final edges since the angle grinder generates a lot of heat. For this I also keep a water spray bottle handy as I go to cool things off.
    Try get the 1mm thick grinder blades and check that they are suitable for stainless steel or "INOX". The 1mm blades do not 'waste' material and allow for more accurate cutting. Be careful not to try go around bends as the disc will 'pinch' and either yank the grinder from your hands or break flying pieces of disc off. I won't attempt it without at least having the work piece very secure in a bench vise. (My wife vowed to leave me if ever I lose a finger, that was even LONG before I displayed notions of making knives )
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  7. #37
    Sharp Shooter

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    Well fingers are useful things I guess...

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  8. #38
    Sharp Shooter
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    Quote Originally Posted by DvdM View Post
    Snowbeast, there's not even blood stains on that file handle price tag yet!
    You might want to invest in a small angle grinder, even a cheapie, you'll soon make up the cost by saving on hacksaw blades which ain't cheap either. I found the 'no name brand' hacksaw blades to be a waste of money and time so there's no cheap route there. I rough cut on average 3-4 blades with one angle grinder disc, about R20 a disc. Also, a baby angle grinder comes in handy in the workshop in general besides for knife making.
    I am guessing blood, sweat and tears really do make part of this process.
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  9. #39
    Sharp Shooter

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    Knuckles lose when they meet 36 grit sanding belt

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  10. #40
    Sharp Shooter
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    Is there a test for metal quality? I'm sitting at a mate's house and her Dad has old tractor scraps all over the place. I'm tempted to scoop some.
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  11. #41
    Sharp Shooter

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    I dont know... but besides springs and I am guessing old plough blades.... I am not sure it is worth it... you can google spark test and see what it does when you grind it...

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  12. #42
    Sharp Shooter
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    I'll do that. Had big plans for today but gym broke me this morning.
    Too many hobbies.
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  13. #43
    Sharp Shooter

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    Get into forging... youll have gym covered

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  14. #44
    Sharp Shooter
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    Oh no. I don't trust myself with fire.
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  15. #45
    Sharp Shooter

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    Jaaa... I wonder about that love the idea of my own heattreat though.

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