What distance do you zero your scope at?
What factors should one take into account in choosing the correct distance?
I ussually start at 10m then 20m and then 30m. I then find the top of my tragectory called the zenith and zero there. You do this by setting in at say 20m and then shoot at 30m. If the shot at 30is higher then I zero there and check at 35m and 25m If either is higher I set there. The reason I do this is so that I can set my ellevation turret to zero and only ever click in 1 direction.
Hi Tomcat. yes this depends if you ft or hft.. seems 15m is the best bet for hft then you aim over for 10-15 under for 15-35ish and over above that again. Best bet is to use chairgun to see the trajectory of you pellet/velocity then decide which will work best for you. Some people prefec to zero @ zenith so the only aim over. Other dont like this cause you end up aiming a few mildots over for some shots. the 15m @ 800fps rule seems to work best all round. As stated above.. for FT it does not matter as you anyways adjust for every shot. I would imagine you want to keep your scope as optically centred as possible for FT to prevent lateral movement when adjusting elevation. So centre your scope optically. get an adjustable mount adjust this mount to zero the optically centred scope to 15m then from there I think you will get the best possible performance for the scope.. the others here may have better input as I am a noob on the subject.
Well I do it slightly differently.
I sight my rifles for 35 yards, then reset the scope turrets to their zero marks and subsequently establish my dialling settings for 5 yard intervals out to 55 yards and back to 20 yards. From 20 yards downward I have dial marks for each yard.
Depending on the height of the mounts, my first crossover point on my trajectory varies from 12-17 yards.
By having 35 yards as a 'zero' setting I have a datum point by which I can quickly establish that the rifle is performing correctly.
This method does mean that I need to dial both upwards and downwards, but having done it for nearly 20 years it has become second nature to remember what is required.
With the dialling I notice a lot of shooters making hard work for themsleves by counting clicks. As the target turrets on many scopes are already calibrated in minutes of angle (MOA) with either 1/4 or 1/8 subdivisions, just learn to dial in MOA - much simpler than counting clicks.
[blockquote]With the dialling I notice a lot of shooters making hard work for themsleves by counting clicks. As the target turrets on many scopes are already calibrated in minutes of angle (MOA) with either 1/4 or 1/8 subdivisions, just learn to dial in MOA - much simpler than counting clicks.
I thought they were the same thing. 1 click = MOA of scope turret 1/4 0r 1/8??
Sorry!! Edited version:
A MOA is NOT a click!! If you look at a big Nikko you will find that it is a "1/8th of an inch" scope, so to speak, which means that you have 8 clicks in 1 MOA. Look further and you will see that the elevation turret is market to 8 with only 4 clicks between 7 and 8 (7x8 = 56 + 4 = 60 clicks in one rotation . A 1/4" scope should have half of that. IE 4 clicks between 1 and 2, 2 and 3 etc. What Dale is saying is that if you need to adjust 50 clicks to shoot a target and you use the big N/S you would just turn the turret to 6 plus 2 clicks or write/remember 6.2MOA for the distance, not count 50 clicks.
Personally I like to zero my rifle at 25m for the same reference reason as Dale and because according to ChairGun that is the zenith of an 8.4g pellet at 800 Ft/sec and also is the LOS (Line Of Sight) when looking through your scope. That means that I would always only adjust to my zero of 25m at the lowest and depending again on the height of the scope, 10m and or 50m as the highest setting. The rifle should then shoot quite flat from around 18m to 30m on your zero and you only work from there going UP all the time to 10 and UP to 50 starting from 30m again. (After your zero between 18 and 30m.) The miniscule amount at 18 and 30 meters that the pellets either goes above or under the LOS makes so little difference that you would never notice it, I promise you. It sounds very complicated but just sit down and get you head around the concept of the pellets trajectory and it will become as clear as mud.
The next thing to remember is that a scope is ONLY zeroed if the turret is adjusted to ZERO (O). A rifle is not zeroed if you hit the mark at a specific setting of the dials but the dial is set at 3.4 or something similar. Zero means exactly that. ZERO!