Well, after a couple of questions for approval…here it is; the first part of an exstensive SPRINGER air rifle tuning/improving guide. I decided to start this educational/knowledge-giving thread, because I wish to contribute something to this forum. I have been given many helpful information here by the people that are ''in the business'' for many many years and possess a huge amount of knowledge. For that, I am grateful.
I am also grateful for unconditional knowledge and experience sharing on this forum.
My goal with this thread is to enable access to ''instant'' quality informations on springer improvements and tweaks that everybody with some experience can do himself without much money, materials or tools (relatively).
Also, I wish to minimize constantly repeating questions and constantly repeating answers all over again.
I hope/and somehow know that this thread will help someone/somewhere/sometime.

Springs are the essence of spring airguns. No springs-no lead slinging.
Most of the time/many times, OEM as well as AFTERMARKET SPRINGS, come ''a bit rough around the edges''. When manufacturers colapse the last coil and grind it flat, they do it without much attention to detail (offcourse-cutting costs and doing mass production). That means that the flat ends are very gritty, rough…when the gun is being cocked, the spring wants to twist and ''run away'' from the point, from where the energy is being delivered. TORQUE is a force that is present every time you cock and release the sears by pulling the trigger. Now just imagine two pieces of sandpaper being pressed to each other and trying to be twisted. I know that's kind of a ''rough'' comparison, but you get the picture. The more gritty the surfaces, the more force it takes for the surfaces to twist against each other. That phenomenom results as a decrease in velocity, decrease in smoothness and therefore increase of wear.
Now, offcourse the goal is to make the spring's ends as smooth as possible.


1) Material which will create a hard, FLAT working surface

2) pieces of wet/dry sandpaper (600,1200,2000grit)

3) flat and round needle file

4) piece of cotton cloth/paper towels or something similar to wipe the spring down when finished

5) some gun oil or whatever oil which will prevent rust from happening (I just use Ballistol; cheap but effective),

6) piece of masking tape.

Ok, now, that you've got everything you need, we can begin the process of spring preparation.
First off, you want to remove the really big and sharp burrs all around the outside diameter of the spring, but also all around the INikko StirlingIDE diameter as well.That's where your 2 files come in.
Start with the inside diameter area. Make sure that you remove the sharp edge and round it a bit.

Be carefull not to file into the rest of the coils, as that would compromise the proper load distribution over the spring and therefore the spring's integrity. So keep that in mind while filling away the metal J
Once you're satisfied with the inside diameter, proceed to the outside diameter burrs and edges. Same rule applies here; file away the sharp edge and don't touch the rest of the coil/s.

There, once you're finished with the file work, on both sides of the spring, you can store your files away.
Now, you can proceed to sanding process. This is where you'll need your FLAT and smooth working surface, on which you're going to place your sanding paper on. If you already have that kind of surface, you don't need aditional material which will create one. In my case, my worktop is pretty beat up and therefore I created a smooth flat surface with a piece of old, 2mm plastic.

Lay your first piece of sanding paper (which is 600grit) flat on the working surface and begin sanding away the metal. It's crucial here, that you sand your spring FLAT. Grab it really close to the end, that way you can assure a 90 degree angle. The only time you're allowed to change the angle of sanding, is when you're sanding the edges that you've filed earlier.

[/URL][/IMG] With 600 grit only sand that long, that you create a uniform surface and remove the remains (scratches) of previous factory grind, which can be clearly seen when it happens. Check progress often and do not sand more than it's necesarry.

[/URL][/IMG] Coil after 2 minutes of 600grit dry sanding.

When finished with 600grit, proceed with 1200grit wet/dry sandpaper. At this stage, it's advisable that you actually use some water during the sanding, as this grit already likes to clog pretty fast. Just dip the end of the spring that you're currently working on in some water and continue sanding away. Always keep in mind that 90 degree angle.
When finished with 1200grit, wipe the remains of sanding off and proceed to 2000grit.
Here it is almost necessary to use water during the process, as 2000grit clogs up real fast. Check progress often, watch out for the angle of sanding and lastly do the edges.

[/URL][/IMG] After 5 minutes of 1200grit wet sanding.

After you're satisfied with the last stage (which should be almost a mirror-like surface by now), you can offcourse proceed to higher grits, although I can personally see no advantages by doing so. 2000 grit is more than sufficient to minimise the factor of friction.
[/URL][/IMG] Before/after

When you stop sanding, make sure you remove ALL the remains of wet/dry, water, etc. Do so by wiping the spring real good with that cotton cloth. Also don't forget that space between the last coil and the second coil, in which between is a really small gap and that's where water and dirt likes to stick around and can, further on, cause rust.
If you do not intend to fit the spring into the rifle any time soon, protect the ends that you've sanded with a piece of masking tape to prevent scratches, etc. Also, if the spring isn't going to be fitted straight away, wipe it down with a little bit of oil to further protect from rust.

There, you've just completed your first task that's necessary to get the best out of your spring piston air rifle

Next week, I'll be doing part 2, which will talk about dissasebmlies, assemblies, tools and other interesting stuff.

All the best, Vito