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Thread: NYCA SPA CP1 Trigger Mod Guide

  1. #1
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    Default NYCA SPA CP1 Trigger Mod Guide

    Ok so here goes attempt number 2 at this post, thanks to Eskom for the power cuts!

    The CP1 (or Air force One Trophy, depending where you're getting them) are amazing little Co2 bolt action pistols. They have unbelievable power and shot count and can achieve fantastic groups when in the right hands....they do however have one monstrous drawback, the standard trigger is disgusting! its pretty much all creep and grinding. Being a bit of a trigger nut, i went about finding a solution to this problem. it became immediately apparent that the mod required would be simple and very effective...it was! in fact it looks as though this gun was designed to have a 2 stage trigger but it was just never done during production.

    NYCA have done quite a few of these now and we have it down to a fine art. Here’s how we go about transforming the utterly repulsive standard CP1 trigger into a TRUE 2-Stage Trigger. This is a fairly simple job to perform at home and requires very basic tools however there is certainly a lot that can go wrong and spare parts are not available as far as I know. Proceed with caution! NY Custom Airguns does this mod for only R250 so if you're unsure and want the experts to do it, give us a call

    This mod requires 3 things:

    • 2 grub screws into the trigger blade, one for the 1st stage fulcrum and a 2nd stage stop screw.
    • 2 grub screws into the trigger housing to replace the pin that stops the triggers return travel. These are there to allow space to adjust the trigger once installed.
    • Correction to the sear contact surfaces.


    First things first, we need to strip the action out the stock and remove all the trigger components. Im going to assume that if you are attempting this then you can get this far without instruction


    The grub screw holes in the trigger blade are drilled and tapped. We give 1mm clearance between the rear edge of the trigger and the circumference of the first tapped hole, then 0.5mm between the outer edges of the finished holes. Take your time here, measure correctly and punch guide holes, then drill with a center drill and finally with a 2.5mm drill before tapping.



    The front grub screw needs to be rounded and polished as its our primary sear contact, the rear grub screw is used to set the 2nd stage and is left flat.





    The stop pin holes are already the right size for tapping so no need to drill them out. Run the tap through both sides and insert a short grub screw in each hole setting them to protrude about 0.5mm proud of the inner side of the trigger housing.




    The last step is to cut down the sides of the sear to reduce the surface area that comes into contact with the hammer. Its then squared off and all the contact surfaces are polished.







    With all that done we can reassemble and set the trigger. I have found the CP1 standard trigger spring works well with this mod, its soft enough to produce a light trigger but still hard enough to return the trigger if the first stage is taken up then released.
    Last edited by Paris; 26-03-15 at 15:37. Reason: Adding a reason for the editing
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  2. #2
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    Nice one NYC. Looking forward to mine
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  3. #3
    Prof. Jan Itor

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    Viva NYCA, Viva!

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  4. #4
    REP: WS Airguns

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    Quote Originally Posted by Citizen K View Post
    Viva NYCA, Viva!

    +1! Excellent, thanks Paris
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  5. #5
    REP: Ratel Sporting Airguns
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    Thanks Paris

    You just forgot to mention that freakin trigger is hard.

    So for the second stage mod I'll be making an alu trigger.

    Cheers
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  6. #6
    Sharp Shooter

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    Really nice dude.
    Good job as usual.
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