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Thread: SPA M11 Jackal stock redo

  1. #1
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    Default SPA M11 Jackal stock redo

    Okay, so as my SPA is on the verge of being sold, I remembered that I still need to post how I redid the stock.

    I started by removing the varnish of the stock with some paint stripper. I applied one coat of about 2mm on one side of the stock, left it outside for 20min, and then scraped it off with an old knife. I continued to use this method for the whole stock.



    After that I went to a friend that has the tools I need to complete the project. Unfortunately I don't have the tools, neither the garage to complete such a project. They did ask me not to mention their names, so I will not. I started of with a Dremel and pencil. I already had an idea in my head as to how I wanted it to look like. I marked all the lines I wanted on the stock and started to carve out the look I'm after with the Dremel.



    Next on my list was the pistol grip end cap and the fore grip. Now this where I got a bit mad and lost hope in the humans in general. I wanted to put a piece of brass in between the two pieces of wood, but just epoxy it in between doesn't cut it for me, because with the first hard fall it will just break off, and a bolt or screw just looks ugly in my opinion. So I called a couple of people experienced in the field, and they didn't want to share their secrets, since "I might take away some of their business". Now that pissed me off to put it lightly. I'm just a guy doing my own stock, not the whole SA's. So I decided then I'll just make a plan. My first idea was to drill holes in the through the brass and halfway into the two pieces of wood and using Pratley Steel to epoxy it together with two pieces of wood rod connecting it all. Now the problem came when clamping the fore end pieces together. As soon as you clamp the pieces together at +- 30 degrees, the wood rods just snapped off. Okay, so plan B then came into play. I decided to use a piece of wire instead of wood rods. So I got 5mm wire at the hardware store and used 80grit sandpaper to make it rough. Another problem came with the Pratley steel, as soon as you heat it (when I started shaping the fore end and pistol grip end cap) it pops right off, so I decided to use a stronger, clear super glue, QBond, but only the clear superglue and not the entire epoxy solution. This combination of the QBond and Steel wire worked like a charm. I actually tried to get it off to test it. First with my hand, pulling, twisting, with it not moving. Then eventually I got it to budge using a hammer after about 5 brutal shots. So I just redid it and now I'm quite sure it will not just 'come off'.







    After I did the fore end and pistol grip I did some last shaping with the Dremel. Then the painstaking sanding must start. I started with 80grit to get out all the Dremel marks, from there I used 120, 320, 600 and 1200grit sandpaper.







    Then I started on the stippling of the grip. I used a vibrating engraver for the stippling. I started of with a design on a piece of thin cardboard, cutted it out and traced it on the grip, for symmetry. From there it was quite simple, just follow the lines.



    From there it was only the staining and oiling left. I don't like light wood, so I picked Woodoc's Imbuia stain. Since the concentrate would make it too dark, I mixed it with Turpentine until I got the colour I wanted. I tested it on a piece of pine, since its colour is close to Beech. I gave it two coats of the stain mix. Then the oiling started, I used Sherrels Schaftol extra dark oil. I started off with 3 coats, letting it dry for 20min in between coats. From there it was one coat per day for a week, one coat a week for a month, and then one coat a month for a year.



    Feel free to ask any questions and I will try to answer. I do hope this help some of the people that would like to do it themselves.



    Last edited by Theo13; 13-05-16 at 13:47. Reason: To add pictures
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  2. #2
    Protea FT Team '18/'19
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    Baie goed gedoen.
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  3. #3
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    great job
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  4. #4
    REP: Tula!! Silencers

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    Bloody nice job Theo, What wood did you use for accents?
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  5. #5
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    Thanks Cor and PCP fan. Oom Mark I used Tyger Eye Mahogany, one of the most beautiful wood I've ever seen
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