I was wondering if the plascon water stain is fine for
use on a rifle stock if not could someone tell me what is
a good stain to use
You are a far better person that I.......
After my nightmares with Beech I decided never EVER to work with it again. Would rather die a thousand deaths and shoot with a TX200hc..... hehehe (just kidding guys).
Attached is what my beech stock ended up as. Also stained and re-stained and cleaned and bleached and cleaned and stained and re-stained and oiled and - jees, can't remember what happened after that - all a blurr....
Next one will be Imbuia I think.
Good luck! Show us some pics please?
As far as I know the Gamo CF-30 comes out with a "hardwood" beech stock as well?
I don't know how they can say beech is hard but anyway - that's just my opinion...
To try and stain beech - a very very light coloured wood is risky. When you remove the original coating off the beech, the true wood colour is like the first picture. You will also notice the grain is full off small "holes" and depending on the direction in which the wood was cut, there could also be "maggots" visible in the grain. See second picture - those are the lighter coloured elongated spots on the wood.
The third picture shows what you can expect when using linseed oil and turps mix - and many many hours and hours and days and days and weeks and weeks and months later.... I say that with a reason by the way. Just google on how to use linseed and turps on a rifle stock. It takes ages to oxidise properly. Boiled linseed - even worse. (and it stinks)!
The next picture shows a close-up of a light coloured stain used on beech - note the small dark specks - that is where the stain is well absorbed into the wood - for the rest, beech does not absorb alcohol based stains very uniformly, and can give unexpected results..... (trust me, I know).
The other thing to consider is the grain and knurls of beech wood or rather the lack thereof... Again, in my opinion, beech lacks personality in that aspect and you will never be able to make a beech stock look like walnut or oak or something like that - unless using very specific painting/staining techniques used to simulate the appearance of knots and knurls in the wood.
If I could offer any advice, off course it depends on what you have in mind, don't stain the beech, rather go for an over-coat off sorts or oil. (What happened to that post about a little bag of nuts someone used on their butts)?
Many of the other guys can offer much better advice I think, but my experience with beech wasn't great, and I decided that if I want to spend the time I would rather invest it into proper hardwood. But, if you have the time and energy to try your hand and it - GOOD LUCK, and post us your progress pics please! Would love to see.
This was an Air Arms Pro-Sport i owned about 3 years ago, i refinished the beech stock with a walnut stain and then lacquered it.
This is more recent, my HW97K. This was bought as a part inletted rough shape sort of a project, and finished with a kit bought of an Airgun BBS member.
The stain was much darker than i wanted, i'll thin it down a LOT more next time.
A common mistake that people make when trying to stain beech is going too dark or almost drowning it in stain and because of this excess the final result is almost always less than desirable.
I've found that no more than 4 LIGHT coats of Walnut stain applied with a cloth comes out beautiful.
Remember beech will never be walnut...
Just finished a CFX Royal refurb. Must agree - beech is not the one you want to mess with. Does not take stain well no matter what you try. Best finish you can get on it is using Danish oil and lots of elbow grease with 0000 grade steel wool and the softest of cloth. Drying time between coats must be at least 3 days, longer is better. Want a good walnut finish, start with Turkish Walnut ... lol.