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Thread: Hatsan At44-10 makeover

  1. #1
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    Default Hatsan At44-10 makeover

    So I have this AT44 for a while now. I stay very far from any major towns so I am left to my own devices when it comes to tuning or maintenance. Therefore most of the work done on the rifle I have done myself.

    I am now once in a state of rebuilding and modification and thought that I should put everything in a thread here on the forum and maybe someone will find it usefull.
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  2. #2
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    Ok here is a link to the making of my custom stock.

    My custom stock - a work in progress ~ Air Rifle SA Forums

    The stock was ok and I liked the shape and feel but was very heavy infront and with the weight of the rifle it became cumbersome to carry around and also to support when making standing shots.

    I decided that I want to try and cut down on the weight forward of the trigger and try and increase the weight in the but in an attempt to balance the rifle a little better.

    In the process I also stripped down the rifle to have a look at what is going on on the inside after I polished internals a year ago.

    Here are some pics and I will post some more later tonight as I had to rush in to work.

    Regards













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  3. #3
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    I took some time today to put all the parts sortoff together in a diy exploded view kind of way.




    I will be going through averything today and see decide what I want to work on and also what outcome realistically I am looking for when finished as that is probably the most important part.

    I have finished the desighn changes on my stock and put two coats of woodoc 10 on. Today will be last sand down and final coat. Once the whole rifle is finished and fitted to stock I will decide if I want to put more weight i the but to balance rifle out even more. I am not really happy with stock at present but at this point in time it is more function over looks. Once I am satified with the feel of the rifle I might get a decent piece of wood and make a new one, maybe a nice laminated stock.




    Just incase anybody was wondering... I am all to familiar with the fact that I am spending alot of time and effort with a gun that is very cheap and i will surely never see any return on investment.

    While I save up for my S400 this will have to do. Besides while not the most popular gun I like it alot and it provides me with quite a learning experience.

    Regards

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  4. #4
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    Hi guys just to give you a update. I have finished the stock and now has 4 coats woodoc 10 on. Looks kind of ok. Think I might try aomething else on my next stock. The woodoc10 tends to run when you turn your back and its increadably difficult to get an even smooth application. I will post a pic of the stock later as I forgot to take a photo this morning before I left home.

    I also stripped all the blueing and anodizing off the rifle using vinigar for the gun blue on the metal parts and caustic soda for the anodizing on the aluminium parts.










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  5. #5
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    After spending the whole of yesterday taking of the anodizing and gun blue I decided I want to try something else with the rifle instead of going all black again.

    So what I want to do is have a polished metal look on most parts and then anodize some parts blue just because I like the look of blue alu.

    This is not going to be a hunting rifle because I dont particularly like hunting much. I also live quite far from any major cities and towns so I cant take the alu for anodizing. Plus I had always wanted to anodize alu and failed once before so I thought I should give it another diy go.

    The process is fairly simple and after reading up a bit more got a couple of things together I had and put the anodizing setup together. Be warned... This is not how it should be done but shows that it can be done in a minimalist approach. If you intend to do commercial anodizing then be prepared to make a small investment as there are quite a few things that you need to make anodizing a pleasurable experience.

    My setup
    1. Battery charger or power supply with decent amp and anything from 12v to 24v will work. A car battery will work also but be carefull as shorting it out will cause you to poop you pants....

    2. Etching and cleaning solution. I used caustic soda mixed with water.

    3. Anodizing fluid. I used battery acid I bought like 10 years ago. Mixed 50 50 with water.

    4. Dye. The only dye I had was old cartridges from old printers that did not work anymore. I broke 3 cyan cartidges appart and squized out the ink wich I then mixed with approx 1l of water.

    5. Water. Everyone say you need to use distilled water. I had no way of getting any and used tap water out of my home filter system.

    I cleaned the parts as best i can with steel wool and scotch pad. Suspended part on alu wire and ensured a good connection as this is critical next to part prep. Once it goes into the caustic soda dont ever touch it again... EVER.

    After caustic soda bath for a couple of min.

    Then wash in filter water and streight into anodizing solution.

    Connect negative lead of power supply to cathode(aluminium plate larger that part you anodizing) and positive lead to your part. Make sure that your part does not touch cathode as this creates a short. Also the only things in the solution should be aluminium nothing else.

    The cathode should start fizzing and the mixture will turn milky from the fine bubbles. I suspended my part at an angle to prevent the bubbles collecting in cavities.

    I anodized the part for roughly 1 and half hours constantly checking that solutio is fizzing. I had to on couple of times correct contact between alu wire and part.

    After appropriate time(will change from part to part and size) has pased you take the part out and rinse in water again and then go streight into dye. The dye can be warm or could(experiment) but not over 50 degrees.

    You can leave the part in the dye until you have the required depth of colour. To check if everything ran accordingly you take the part out of the dge after a couple of min and rinse in water. It is ok if some colour come off but if you lose most of the colour something went wrong probably the connection in the anodizing solution.

    When you are happy with colour you can rinse part in water and then lut in boiling water for approx 30min.

    After this take part out and let cool. Wipe down with a old clean rag(not your wifes dish cloth). Some colour will come of but after some rubbing it stops.

    Here is my results... And let me say that I am extreamely happy. The finish is not 100 percent but fery close to perfect. This makes me think what is possible with decent equipment and commercially available chemicals and dyes.

    Stoked stoked stoked


















    - - - Updated - - -

    Sorry for the long read and post....

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  6. #6
    Sharp Shooter
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    Nicely done. I like the blue anodizing a lot.
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  7. #7
    Sharp Shooter
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    nice thread keep it up
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by RiaanduToit View Post
    Nicely done. I like the blue anodizing a lot.

    Thx

    Me like it also..... I am stoked to finish the rifle.
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  9. #9
    Protea FT Team '18/'19
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    Wow that looks really very good. Nothing is more rewarding than to restore/rebuild or modify a rifle. Don't worry if everyone doesn't love the outcome, you will have lots of fun and memories doing it. Keep us posted please.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cor View Post
    Wow that looks really very good. Nothing is more rewarding than to restore/rebuild or modify a rifle. Don't worry if everyone doesn't love the outcome, you will have lots of fun and memories doing it. Keep us posted please.

    Will do and thank you.
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  11. #11
    Sharp Shooter
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    Very nice! Bring on those loooong posts!!
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  12. #12
    Protea FT Team '18
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    Some great work there Sir, I shall most definitely try the anodizing method, keep us posted and keep up the good work
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  13. #13
    REP: WS Airguns

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    Well done!! Thanks for sharing.
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  14. #14
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    Good day once agian.

    So while I am waiting for some new parts from machine shop I reasembled the rifle and will then change parts out when they arrive.

    The new parts will allow me to adjust power from outside of rifle via an adjustment knob with no need to remove stock. Also when the cocking the rifle the safety will remain in either on or off position and no longer auto safety. I will then also need to move the safety to a new position as the adjustment knob will take up space. The whole mod need to be safe so while I want an adjustment knob I want to retain the safety some way or another. I have jt figured out thou and will post pics once I am done with parts.

    Meanwhile.... Here are sone pics of assembled rifle.

    Regards










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  15. #15
    Sharp Shooter
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    Looks great! Well done...
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