Good day ladies and gents
So I was one of the few that went out and bought a Retay 100x. Now while they are incredible to shoulder and have superb triggers, they are prone to factory related defects. (QC may be a little iffy) I had it over the chrony last weekend and to my dismay the rifle wasn't even breaking the 500fps mark. So naturally a strip down was in order.
First things first. They rifle itself is a piece of cake to strip. 3 screws and 2 pins hold the entire thing together. With almost no preload I had the pins out with a punch and fibre mallet.
Still covered with factory grease and gunk, I went about cleaning the compression chamber, piston, spring guide and spring.
Everything looked fine on casual inspection. The spring wasn't broken and the seal is new. There weren't any score marks in the compression chamber itself either. Turns out the compression chamber has a "screw" in transfer port. The factory hadn't used any sealant so half of the air was escaping past the threads instead of through the transfer port. A set of circlip pliers does the trick of removing the transfer port. If its tough, you'll need a heat gun to melt the factory Loctite first.
Cleaned up the transfer port on a wire wheel and added Loctite blue to the threads and screwed it in. PS: While the Loctite is still wet,insert the compression chamber in the rifle again to ensure that the hole for the cocking lever lines up 100% with the slot in the chamber, else once it sets you'll need to get creative as the chamber won't latch into place.
I went ahead and polished the piston/spring mating surface with 180/240/400 grit sand paper with a 10" 3/8 extension and the 14mm socket. Mount the extension and socket in a vice and Q-bond the sand paper to the socket(cut to fit the socket), put the piston over and rotate back and forth it by hand as if you're lapping valves on a cylinder head. I managed an almost mirror finish on mine.
The spring was next. These are as rough as a snipers elbow from the factory and must be sorted out when you strip it down. I bevelled the coil ends with a bench grinder to take off the sharp edge and the went with a 240/400/800 sanding job.
The breech seal is made out of what appears to be a hot glue type material. Not my cup of tea, so out came the heat gun and melted out the glue. Now you'll have quite a deep recess. I filled the recess with gasket maker till it was flush with the transfer port and placed an 8 x 2mm o-ring on top and let it set.
The spring guide and trigger group look like it came straight out of an el Gamo catalogue until you start looking at the sears. I must've searched during a weeks worth of lunch breaks and came up with nothing that looked even remotely similar. What I can say is it has a 4 lever/sear system that is smooth as silk and its a true 2 stage job. 1st, 2nd stage and weight adjustable. As a side note, a Gamo Gas ram looks like it fits in where the spring guide would go. Its held in place with a only split pin and is probably the next thing I'll be doing.
Everything was assembled with the required lubricants on the piston seal, outside of compression chamber, the spring guide, the spring itself and spring ends. I left the trigger lube alone as its working smoothly.
There are 2 other things that the rifle comes with that either serve no purpose or will fail in the future. They are the push button for the cocking lever and the 2nd anti bear trap. The button can be used the release the under lever or you can use the spring loaded tab as well. I chose to remove the button and fill it in its place with Pratley putty. Sanded it back and paint the front shroud matt black.
The 2nd anti bear trap button would struggle to release the lever most times, so I just removed it all together. No more problems there.
I haven't had a chance to test the rifle again, but its quieter and smoother with less felt recoil.