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Thread: Powerful PCP pellet stop?

  1. #1
    Sharp Shooter

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    Default Powerful PCP pellet stop?

    Hi Guys,

    I recently got my first PCP air rifle, A Huben K1 and so far im very happy with it. At present settings it shoots the JSB 25.39 monsters at 950fps (about 50 ft.lbs)

    The problem is that it shoots straight through everything i have. I had a 25mm pine board which was fine to put 4x A4 targets on and stop my HW50s pellets(only a perfect 5-group would start cracking the board on the other side)

    So, since I had no idea how hard the new PCP would shoot I put down the pine board with targets on and another 4x 6mm hardboard behind it followed by a bag of garden fertilizer and behind that a wheelbarrow.... Why is my wheelbarrow now full of holes! If you put 2 or 3 pellets on the same place there will be a new hole in my wheelbarrow each time. I'm both very impressed and also very dissapointed(LOL). I'm only shooting at 15m for now as this was the range i would plink with my little springer. I calculated that at the 15m target the Huben still hits at 45 ft.lbs in this setting.(900ft/s shot through chrony)

    So the question, What do you guys use as pellet stops with these powerful PCP guns? Also, is there a way to catch the lead for use later on(casting slugs or making fishing sinkers)... the huben is so quick at dispatching JSB monsters that I feel it a waste not to capture the lead somehow so how do you do it?

    Thanks guy's.
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  2. #2
    Sharp Shooter
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    I made me a square frame with tubing and a 3mm steel plate angled at 45 degrees down attached as back plate. To the front of the frame I fitted thick conveyor belt so I can stick or staple any sort of target. The conveyor belt mostly stops any 12ft/lb pellet and the angled 3mm back plate deflects/stops anything going past the conveyor belt. It has consumed a gazillion low, medium, high power pellets and .22lr and still going strong.
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  3. #3
    Springer FT World Champion '09
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSF View Post
    I made me a square frame with tubing and a 3mm steel plate angled at 45 degrees down attached as back plate. To the front of the frame I fitted thick conveyor belt so I can stick or staple any sort of target. The conveyor belt mostly stops any 12ft/lb pellet and the angled 3mm back plate deflects/stops anything going past the conveyor belt. It has consumed a gazillion low, medium, high power pellets and .22lr and still going strong.

    What he said...

    The beauty of conveyor belt is that it is almost self-regenerating. As the shots pile up, they create a layer that replaces itself. I have a 1.5 x 1.5 section set up on gum poles at the bottom of my garden and its been going for years!

    I'll post a pic.
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  4. #4
    Sharp Shooter

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    Thanks for the reply's guys.

    OK I will look into building a custom setup as you've described. What thickness is the conveyor rubber that you used? Also, are these belts not reinforced with cables? The trap would have to let the pellet through to allow the trap to capture it. I'm sure the huben will shoot through it but will the belt ricochet(dodgy!) the .12fpe pellets or do they just get flattened and fall to the floor? is the noise backyard friendly?

    Thanks
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  5. #5
    Sharp Shooter
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    AFAIK unless it is industrial strength conveyor belt is made of rubber and some woven material.
    If it does not penetrate it is a 'twack', if it penetrates it is a 'twack-ding'.
    Being on a farm I would not know what the decibel level of 'back yard friendy' means but I can tell you my higher powered Priester & Air Ranger delivers more 'whack' than any 12 ft/lb 'twack'. Guess there is only one way for you to find out?
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  6. #6
    Springer FT World Champion '09
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    The conveyor belt I have is multi-layered, with a rubber coating and a woven material... about an inch thick and pretty heavy. Easy to cut and handle though.

    12fpe 4.5 makes a soft thwack when hitting it.
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  7. #7
    Sharp Shooter

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    Yes I think I'll build the basic frame and backstop in the meantime and then experiment with different "front covers". It would suck if the 12fpe bounces off the conveyor belt and gives you false POI on your paper targets lol. I still shoot my springer very often so It would have to work for low power as well.
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  8. #8
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    I went the completely budget friendly DIY option, with the build as follow:
    1x Stella Artois box, turn box on it's side so that you can neatly pack your "filling" in such a way that it is in vertical layers when you turn the box upright. Fill 50% of box with old wasted print paper (stacked neatly and tightly), add some old wood as a easy replaceable hard filling (conveyor will work better I assume), fold 2 old towels and place in the front.

    It's insane how much energy a folded towel can absorb!!! So far this build has taken around 100 shots with rifles between 25-35 ft/lbs with no sign of penetration past the 1st towel.


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  9. #9
    Sharp Shooter

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    That box looks like a good idea too. When you want to recover the lead, you just shake out the box lol. - I'm sure this is rather quiet as well.

    I think I would need a slightly bigger surface area though as i love stacking up some random items for the occasional destruction test in between the targets haha. - beer cans, apples toilet roll etc etc
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  10. #10
    Protea FT Team '18/'19
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    Take a big box, fill it with old clothes or material and there you go. Stick your paper target on the side with masking tape. All the pellets are collected in the material and can be recycled.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barron View Post
    That box looks like a good idea too. When you want to recover the lead, you just shake out the box lol. - I'm sure this is rather quiet as well.

    I think I would need a slightly bigger surface area though as i love stacking up some random items for the occasional destruction test in between the targets haha. - beer cans, apples toilet roll etc etc
    Box works a charm and is extremely quiet. The cloth also prevents any bounce back you might get.

    As for building a bigger one. Easy, get a bigger box and increase filler. Just ensure that you do not create a weakspot where the materials do not overlap. I got this idea from this forum where people stuffed boxes with old clothing, however I had a fear that should the pellet make it through some damage can be done as I do shoot inside the house when testing and screwing around with new pellets etc. Hence the hard backing.
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  12. #12
    Sharp Shooter
    The Professor

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    I would look at getting some concrete slabs to make a base, sides and a back and then add a bank of sand within it. The scaled up version works well for firearms.

    It is quiet, and when you get enough accumulated lead just sieve the sand and replace it back in the bank. Targets can be mounted on a frame in front of the bank

    Might also be worth adding a top cover to stop any 'pop-ups' escaping.
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  13. #13
    Marksman

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    A cardboard box with carpet underfelt works great. I shoot between 12 and 24fpe at distances between 1 and 15 metres ( my garden limits me) to my pellet trap, depending if i am testing fpe (indoors) or accuracy ( plinking) . And the bonus -- it is super quiet !!!! I live in a townhouse complex.

    The pellets have not penetrated more than 30cm after more than 300 shots taken. You just open the box and move the felt around or repack it after a couple hundred shots.
    I also make sure that i do not shoot all the shots at the same location, so i use 10mm self adhesive labels as targets on a A4 paper that i place in an opening on the box. I used a ceiing fan box approx 70x30x30,

    I am sure that a single pellet at 50fpe will not penetrate more than 30cm depending on how tight you pack the box. and even if you hit the same spot twenty times in a row it should not penetrate more than another 20cm. My own deduction and by no means Law - A lot of deflection takes place, because of the fibres of the underfelt and obviously the previous pellets in the felt, and that absorbs a lot of the energy and stops the pellets quite quickly. You may need n bigger box with a backstop/ sidestops to be on the safe side
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