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Thread: BSF S60 Restoration

  1. #1
    Cadet

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    Default BSF S60 Restoration

    I recently was able to get my hand on a BSF S60 that was in a fair state, but seeing I am not a gun smith I will give it a go as this will be my 3rd restore with only knowledge from the internet and learn as I go. I will show you the way I have done it. I do not say it the right or only way, but they way I found it to work for me

    I do like the older air rifles as there build quality stood the test of time and are still enjoyable to have fun with.

    Once received and striped, rust is quit evident.









    Removed the old stain from the stock with some paint stripper and lots of sanding.




    Allot of the screw heads where damaged and a locking screw was also missing. I also proceeded to give the larger metal works a light sand with very fine sandpaper to try and get rid of bumps and scratches.




    The best way I found to remove rust from small parts is by electrolysis and I have also noted that cold bluing adheres much better once done. Small parts took only about 10 to 15min and the bigger parts like the barrel and main body took allot longer.




    As seen above how rusted the trigger guard was, I think it came out quite clean and no engravings/stamps where degraded because these parts weren't sanded.





    The stock then got a couple coats of Tru oil, metal parts was cold blued and received a heavy dose of oil.







    Here are some pictures of rifle once all was completed.













    Once completed and assembled the rifle got a place in my very small collection.

    Top Rifle - BSA Cadet Major
    Middle Rifle - BSF S60
    Bottom Rifle - Norica Sport ( Know its not that old, but was restored as well)







    Last edited by heinrichs; 14-08-19 at 09:14.
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  2. #2
    Marksman
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    Well done
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  3. #3
    Sharp Shooter

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    Always a pleasure to see a restored rifle. I have a few Stanley bench planes ready to be "renewed" again as well so love the process. Well done!
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  4. #4
    Sharp Shooter
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    Nicely done!
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  5. #5
    Marksman

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    Superb
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  6. #6
    Sharp Shooter

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    Hi Heinrich.
    Very well done.
    Sommer makes me lus to tackle my S60 as well.

    I have 2x questions if you don't mind....

    - What / How is the electrolysis setup? What do you use as annode and cathode, what voltage and what salt type in the solution?
    - What brand of cold bluing did you use?

    Thanks
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fucius View Post
    Hi Heinrich.
    Very well done.
    Sommer makes me lus to tackle my S60 as well.

    I have 2x questions if you don't mind....

    - What / How is the electrolysis setup? What do you use as annode and cathode, what voltage and what salt type in the solution?
    - What brand of cold bluing did you use?

    Thanks
    Hi fucius

    1. The anode(-) is connected to your piece that you want to remove the rust from and the cathode (+) I connected to a bunch of normal iron nails via copper wire.
    For the smaller parts I used a small container with about 250ml of water.
    I used 1 x table spoon of bicarb of soda per 250ml of water. I read that its better to use washing soda, but I didn't have it.
    For the small container I just used a normal 12v 1amp power supply and the bigger parts I had to put in a 5L bucket, but for that I used a car battery charger.
    I tested on a bunch of old steel that was lying around first.
    I just kept an eye on it the whole time and rotate parts as needed.
    But there are allot of video's on Youtube as well.

    The above is just that worked for me.

    2. The Cold Blue I use is Quick Browning from Ballistol Klever. Comes in a 50ml bottel
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by heinrichs View Post
    Hi fucius

    1. The anode(-) is connected to your piece that you want to remove the rust from and the cathode (+) I connected to a bunch of normal iron nails via copper wire.
    For the smaller parts I used a small container with about 250ml of water.
    I used 1 x table spoon of bicarb of soda per 250ml of water. I read that its better to use washing soda, but I didn't have it.
    For the small container I just used a normal 12v 1amp power supply and the bigger parts I had to put in a 5L bucket, but for that I used a car battery charger.
    I tested on a bunch of old steel that was lying around first.
    I just kept an eye on it the whole time and rotate parts as needed.
    But there are allot of video's on Youtube as well.

    The above is just that worked for me.

    2. The Cold Blue I use is Quick Browning from Ballistol Klever. Comes in a 50ml bottel
    Where did you source the bluing?
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  9. #9
    Cadet

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Ballistic View Post
    Where did you source the bluing?

    I got mine from a local gun shop
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  10. #10
    Sharp Shooter

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    Thanks for the info.
    Will play around with it.
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