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Thread: What Zero Distance?

  1. #1
    Sharp Shooter

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    Default What Zero Distance?

    Hi everyone,

    I am in the process of adding a rail spacer to add 1" to my scope height, in saying this I obviously now have many variables that need to be looked at.

    So I need feedback to assist me please, especially as some very smart people roam here.

    I shoot FT, I am lifting my scope height by 1". This due to my main shooting position being deadmans and low as well as being more comfortable with a slightly higher scope height.

    Looking at the above and reading some input I have received feedback that I should Zero at 30m rather that the 25m I do right now, being new at this I was simply following the 25m zero so any input on my higher scope height vs what zero would be MUCH appreciated thanks!

    Lastly, I currently shoot 8.44 pellets, should I look at heavies as I see the more serious guys all shooting heavies? I understand the relationship of weight vs wind deviation with heavies but some info from guys who have shot both and settled on one in particular would be great!
    Last edited by ravenflight; 08-10-19 at 00:34.
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  2. #2
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    There is not much difference between 25m and 30m in your zero. Finkel en koljander, die een is net soos die ander. You are not going to make one more or less shot if you choose either.

    If you can range 95%-100% correct every time at long distances then try heavies. The BC with heavies is better than 8,44s, so you have more power at the target and therefore the wind effects you less at further distances. IF you can find a heavie that groups well in your rifle try that. Most 8.44s will group well. but only certain 10.34s will group well.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ravenflight View Post

    Lastly, I currently shoot 8.44 pellets, should I look at heavies as I see the more serious guys all shooting heavies? I understand the relationship of weight vs wind deviation with heavies but some info from guys who have shot both and settled on one in particular would be great!
    Which pellets is an interesting debate - i don't know the answer, but if you look at the last worlds, of the top 25 shooters:
    2 shot JSB express (including Costello)
    2 shot heavies
    1 shot H&N 8,5
    18 shot 8.44
    2 didn't specify which pellet weights.
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  4. #4
    Sharp Shooter
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    Ian the 25m/30m Zero point is a starting point. If you want to be pedantic then 20.5m is the exact halfway distance of an FT course, without slope taken into account, 50-9=41 /2=20.5. Chairgun need a beginning, middle and end distance to calculate the clicks from. Once calculated and adjusted by actually shooting those clicks in controlled indoor no wind conditions, then you follow your Ranging/Clicks compensated by wind/density altitude/BC/ humidity/slope etc for the particular shot.

    Most Steyr shooters are using Air Arm 10.34gn heavies as per what Cor described.
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  5. #5
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    Is there really a zero when we use clicks for adjusting to the determined distances?
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  6. #6
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    I think ZERO is a starting point so that one does not run out of clicks to the top or bottom of the elevation turret. Without that point, shimming is debatable.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith T View Post
    Is there really a zero when we use clicks for adjusting to the determined distances?
    Lol, well said
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeBrews View Post
    Ian the 25m/30m Zero point is a starting point. If you want to be pedantic then 20.5m is the exact halfway distance of an FT course, without slope taken into account, 50-9=41 /2=20.5. Chairgun need a beginning, middle and end distance to calculate the clicks from. Once calculated and adjusted by actually shooting those clicks in controlled indoor no wind conditions, then you follow your Ranging/Clicks compensated by wind/density altitude/BC/ humidity/slope etc for the particular shot.
    This makes no sense, the mid-point on the longest lane is 25m, you shoot from the shooting line, not the 9m target.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by africansky View Post
    This makes no sense, the mid-point on the longest lane is 25m, you shoot from the shooting line, not the 9m target.
    Chairgun is nice, but if you want to be as good as you can be, leave Chairgun and test it yourself. That is the only way to know you are 100% correctly setup.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwentyCal View Post
    Chairgun is nice, but if you want to be as good as you can be, leave Chairgun and test it yourself. That is the only way to know you are 100% correctly setup.
    I beg to differ. I zero my scope on 25m, shoot at 50m and count the clicks from zero, shoot at 9m and count the clicks from zero and feed that into Chairgun. I then manipulate the other values in Chairgun so the clicks reflect these three values and that's it, done. Chairgun then gives you the perfect clicks for every meter between 9 and 50m. Since doing this I have not had one distance that the clicks were wrong.
    Absolutely no need for measuring scope height, BC or to shoot every distance to set up a click chart.
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  11. #11
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    African Sky you are correct on the matter from a shooting position point. My Bad.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cor View Post
    I beg to differ. I zero my scope on 25m, shoot at 50m and count the clicks from zero, shoot at 9m and count the clicks from zero and feed that into Chairgun. I then manipulate the other values in Chairgun so the clicks reflect these three values and that's it, done. Chairgun then gives you the perfect clicks for every meter between 9 and 50m. Since doing this I have not had one distance that the clicks were wrong.
    Absolutely no need for measuring scope height, BC or to shoot every distance to set up a click chart.
    I can see how it can work. I did not use chairgun for years, so it would be better than then. I stand to be corrected
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  13. #13
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    Your "zero" is loosely referred to the peak of the trajectory of the pellet. Logic and reality say that the higher the scope the further away the peak of the trajectory.
    As Keith said there is no zero if you are dialing. Most shooters use the peak as the right most click point or "zero". Allowing you to only dial in one direction and that's up or anti clock wise

    What you should do is to optically zero your scope, (Not mechanical zero). From there you shim or adjust your mounts till the POI is spot on at +-42m in my case. Why this distance? You want your scope to be at its best at the long ranges and this is where the scope is at its optical zero. It's a lot to consider.
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  14. #14
    Sharp Shooter

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    Thanks Total SS, now may I please ask a favour seeing I'm going through the paces anyway with scope height and redoing my zero and click chart, what is the procedure to optically zero a scope and then set a range target to get a POI at X distance?

    Thanks to all for the feedback so far, see I knew very smart people hang out here too.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ravenflight View Post
    Thanks Total SS, now may I please ask a favour seeing I'm going through the paces anyway with scope height and redoing my zero and click chart, what is the procedure to optically zero a scope and then set a range target to get a POI at X distance?

    Thanks to all for the feedback so far, see I knew very smart people hang out here too.
    Look on YouTube.

    Mirror or rotation. Mirror is the quickest and less fuss, but not necessarily the most precise.

    Setting DESIRED POI at a specific range at scope optical centre is near impossible without using adjustable mounts, and IMO, therefore not worth the effort it takes. Good luck finding them here.

    Rule no. 5: Don't overthink this thing!
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