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Thread: The winner is Danish oil ( 40 degree heat helped)

  1. #1
    Marksman
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    Default The winner is Danish oil ( 40 degree heat helped)




    Recently acquired a P15 from (Bruce on the forum, thanks again) , I wanted a new look for the stock.

    The beech wood was previously treated and stained but I sanded this down and then was left with a few options.

    Wanted a dark wood look to the stock. NovaDye ebony was not available at Builders so went with Woodoc gel stain ebony ( never used this).It was however not ideal ( if anybody has had good results with this please share).I believe the 400grid sanding and previous staining left the pores to tight and "blocked".



    I wiped on the Woodoc stain and to my shock a thick plastic like colour developed on the stock - the instructions to rub it off was not successful and in the end I sanded it down again.

    On the second attempt I applied it to whole one side of the stock - and wiped off after giving less time to dry - better result, but very difficult to blend in on areas that did not take well.In the end the only remedy was using a scotchbrite scourer pad and work it in.

    4 hours later I was happy ( but not with the Woodoc stain).
    I believe it would work better on wood with less dense grain or that was not previously treated with oil, wax, stain ect.I applied one layer of Schaftol dark oil - great oil, penetrates easily , did not interfere with the stain. But this left a matt finish and not quite the look I wanted.




    I waited for schaftol to dry and then started with Danish oil.After the first application it was tacky on the surface despite the recommended method to apply this - I think the schaftol and maybe the woodoc stain prevented easy penetration.

    24 hr later and 33 degrees outside still tacky, I proceeded with more layers.Then after 5 layers and a 40 degree Piketberg heat, a fan and some wind I had a nice smooth dry finish and completely dry.


    The winner was Danish oil to bring out a nice mild gloss and the look I wanted.




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  2. #2
    Sharp Shooter
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    Looking good...well done!!
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  3. #3
    Sharp Shooter

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    I did my EV2's stock years ago with Danish Oil, still shining, brilliant stuff.
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  4. #4
    Sharp Shooter
    The Professor

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    Beech can be notoriously difficult to stain well, that is why it is usually finished in a coloured lacquer.

    Your results are some of the best I have seen on refinishing beech.
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  5. #5
    Sharp Shooter
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    Wow looks lovely. thanks for posting your pics. I also have a p15 whose stock I would like to redo in teak colouring with Danish oil
    Where can I find Danish oil (in cape Town) ? or is it something you normally order through gunsmiths etc?
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  6. #6
    Marksman
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    I got mine from Hardware centre in CPT.
    I think strand hadware also stocks it.

    A little goes a very long way so I would recommend the 250ml container except if you are going to be doing a lot of woodwork.

    https://www.hardwarecentre.co.za/contact-us
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  7. #7
    Prof. Jan Itor

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    Not mine but I did own it for a time. Original thread: Oiling a beech TX200 stock ~ Air Rifle SA Forums using this method Oiling a stock ~ Air Rifle SA Forums

    A Beech stock can be made to look good with effort. Hendrick's stock is a good example of that.
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  8. #8
    Sharp Shooter

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    The bluing looks fantastic. I love that glossy deep blue effect. Going to start some experiments soon so that I can do in on a cfx.
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  9. #9
    Sharp Shooter

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    I am not quite sure why you gave up on the Schaftol after only one layer. Sure if you also applied 5 coats it should have given a similar finish than Tru-Oil or Danish Oil.

    They all work on the same principle.
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  10. #10
    Marksman
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    I used schaftol previously on my fx crown walnut with great results.
    Very good product.

    The reason i wanted danish oil for this was the built in varnish and hardner it has in.
    The wood dye seems to come off slightly when sanding with 2000grid between applications of oil.

    I was worried this would become a problem with areas losing colour after a few weeks of use.

    I gave the stock one layer with schaftol to feed the wood a bit( over applied and wiped off excess after 20min - most socked in nicely)

    The danish seemed to give a better seal in this case with a finish that resisted the wood stain from coming off.
    It was a bit harder on the surface of the stock after fully curing than the schaftol and a semigloss finish( the schaftol was more matt)

    Just my experience but i sure with a better penetrating wood stain both would be fine for a great finish.
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