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Thread: Zeroing a scope on a springer...

  1. #1
    Springer FT World Champion '09
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    Default Zeroing a scope on a springer...

    Please list the process and techniques, as i am struggling with a new Nikko Stirling Gold Crown Air King on my Lightning XL.

    I can't see how I can get so much variation on the POI as I am. I also can't seem to get the gun to stop shooting to the right!


    AAAAAAARGH!!!!!


    Maybe I am being an idiot?

    HELP!!!
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  2. #2
    Sharp Shooter
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    Blud, are you using the scope stop screw on the rail? need to use the stop else the mount wil shift. Then also you need to shoot quite a few shots for the mlunt to settle against the stop. Seems rather strange though to keep shooting to the right? Scope fine? Have you run out of adjustment maybe to the one side? Have you tried to turn the mount around?
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  3. #3
    Sharp Shooter

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    Quote Originally Posted by BludLust View Post
    Please list the process and techniques, as i am struggling with a new Nikko Stirling Gold Crown Air King on my Lightning XL.

    I can't see how I can get so much variation on the POI as I am. I also can't seem to get the gun to stop shooting to the right!


    AAAAAAARGH!!!!!


    Maybe I am being an idiot?

    HELP!!!
    Blud, what sort of grouping are you getting? Make sure you don't change the POI while squeezing the trigger. Put the scope on max magnification, hold the rifle and squeeze the trigger without a pellet, while watching carefully your crosshair. Make sure they don't move off the aiming point while doing this. If it moves, you need to work on your technique. And don't rest the front on anything but your hand. And then you can rest the hand on a table.
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  4. #4
    Springer FT World Champion '09
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    Mount stop... scope is set right against it...from the start.
    Reversed mount...tried it.
    Consistent grip...got it. doing it
    Consistent trigger pull... got it. doing it
    lissen to this...

    as I was constantly shooting to the right, I adjusted the scope DRASTICALLY to the left, and high, past my point of aim. I started gradually bringing it towards the POA, with 3 shot POI's sitting in a C2C group of about 10mm at 20m. A series of 5 groups got me very close to my POA.

    All of a sudden, when I was very close to the POA, the POI shifted about 50mm down and to the right.

    This is a NEW scope fellas?

    Lloyd?
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  5. #5
    Sharp Shooter
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    mm.. either mount is moving or the scope is toast by the sounds of it. If an airking you can just swap it out.
    Last edited by JTK; 03-12-08 at 15:00.
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  6. #6
    Marksman
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    sounds like scope is toast...
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  7. #7
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    Has the rifle been shot in, ie. has it seen about 1000 pellets through it? When last has the barrel been cleaned? Once you clean the barrel, the POI will be out for the next 10-20 shots but then it will come back again. Also, if you are resting the rifle let it lie on your open hand and just cradle the rifle, don't hold it firm, and if you are shooting over a rest use lots and lots of pillows. The rifle cannot touch anything solid - it must be free to move and buck through its cycle. Follow through with the shot as well.

    Sometimes I go through days with my XL where I cannot hit a paper target to my satisfaction - it is shooting all over the place and I'm quite prepared to smash it against the braai because the POI is not grouping nicely. Site the scope to the best average shot placement, and take her out into the field. On Monday I couldn't hit a thing at 25 meters on paper with a pillowed dead rest - it was driving me crazy. So I went out to the blueberry fields and managed to nab several mousebirds and two big red wing startlings - one of which was 40 meters away on a telephone pole. Try Powapells, my rifle loves them (or Accupells second).
    Good luck - the XL will try your patience but she handles so well.
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  8. #8
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    Is this proof of a dead scope?

    What I did (and maybe the fundis out there will say it is wrong) is I removed 99% of human influence on the Rifle/Scope setup.

    I cradled it in a benchbag, so that it simulated a consistent human grip (resting in a light gripping front hand) with NO 'hand movement', and a consistent influence on the recoil of the gun. My only contact with the gun was a even, gentle rear grip, where my hand was supported by the bag. On each shot using this technique, I can say for sure, that the trigger issue was removed. At release, the crosshair is ALWAYS in the same spot.

    Having set the scene, the following occurred...

    Shooting sets of 3 pellets, I immediately achieved a 10mm C2C group at 20m - Right and low, by about 70mm from POA (point of aim).

    Adjusting the scope 5 clicks up and left at a time, I achieved a shifted group of the same.

    After the 4th 'process', I had the groups creeping consistently towards the POA

    Suddenly, on the next set, the POI would jump totally randomly along one of the axis.

    I ran through this process twice, with identical results and have now given up.

    Regarding the 'sandbag' technique... I feel it is a viable method, due to the sets of groupings achieved. Unfortunately, we had a storm and the target was 'dissolved'.

    Any comment?

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  9. #9
    Sharp Shooter

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    Blud it really sounds like a scope issue. Why don't you try the same scope on your S510 and see if it shifts the way it does on the XL?
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  10. #10
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    Not dieseling, is it? Read somewhere that over lubricating pellets would cause this even if the rifle were 'clean'
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  11. #11
    Sharp Shooter

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    Blud. I have similar problems with the same outfit. On Sunday,one moment I hit a paint ball at 30m. The next I cant hit the brick it is on. Then again I took out 2 pigeons and a mynah one shot kills at +- 40m two stories up in a palm tree. I am starting to suspect the scope aswell since my friend is more accurate on the target at times but also not consistent with my gun. I am going to try a different Nikko Stirling to see what happens. Pls keep us posted and will do the same. THIS IS DRIVING ME NUCKING FUTS!!!!!
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  12. #12
    Sharp Shooter

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    Quote Originally Posted by BludLust View Post
    Is this proof of a dead scope?

    What I did (and maybe the fundis out there will say it is wrong) is I removed 99% of human influence on the Rifle/Scope setup.

    I cradled it in a benchbag, so that it simulated a consistent human grip (resting in a light gripping front hand) with NO 'hand movement', and a consistent influence on the recoil of the gun. My only contact with the gun was a even, gentle rear grip, where my hand was supported by the bag. On each shot using this technique, I can say for sure, that the trigger issue was removed. At release, the crosshair is ALWAYS in the same spot.

    Having set the scene, the following occurred...

    Shooting sets of 3 pellets, I immediately achieved a 10mm C2C group at 20m - Right and low, by about 70mm from POA (point of aim).

    Adjusting the scope 5 clicks up and left at a time, I achieved a shifted group of the same.

    After the 4th 'process', I had the groups creeping consistently towards the POA

    Suddenly, on the next set, the POI would jump totally randomly along one of the axis.

    I ran through this process twice, with identical results and have now given up.

    Regarding the 'sandbag' technique... I feel it is a viable method, due to the sets of groupings achieved. Unfortunately, we had a storm and the target was 'dissolved'.

    Any comment?

    I found a very similar pattern with my Nikko Air King on my Gamo Hunter. Initially it was shooting nice tight groups (for about 300 shots), and then began to do as you described yours doing. I tried everything, and eventually, after plenty of frustration, just gave up trying to figure it out...
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  13. #13
    Sharp Shooter
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    must be scope?
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  14. #14
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    shoot with open sights and see what groups do you get and compare it with the groups that you get with the scope 100% sure it is the scope.
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  15. #15
    Springer FT World Champion '09
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    There are no open sights on the rifle.
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